Kingpins to launch ‘most sustainable’ clothing collection – Sourcing Journal
The next edition of Kingpins Amsterdam will present the first collection of the most sustainable clothing.
The collection will include a selection of Kingpins fabrics and washes named Most Sustainable Products (MSP) in 2019. Factories represented on the list include Artistic Milliners (Pakistan), Bossa (Turkey), Calik Denim (Turkey), Candiani Denim ( Italy), Kilim Denim (Turkey), Naveena Denim (Pakistan), Neela Denim (Pakistan), Orta Andolu (Turkey), Prosperity Textile (China) and Vicunha (Brazil).
Miguel Sanchez, Transformers Foundation Board Member and Kingpins Technology Leader, scoured the show floors to select the final 10 selections based on three general categories: fibers, application processes and new concepts. .
The collection will be designed by consultant Piero Turk. PVH Europe will produce the garments in its workshop in Amsterdam and the finished garments will be washed by Italian machine manufacturer Tonello.
Turk will work with Sanchez to select fabrics and finishes.
“Innovation, sustainability and transparency are the core elements of our show today,” said Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show and the Transformers Foundation, of the new project. “MSP is our solution for bringing actionable and trusted insights to brands and designers looking for the most sustainable and impactful resources available to them.”
The list reflects the global reach of denim’s sustainable makeover. Artistic Milliners was honored for its Bio-Vision platform, which focuses on the use of biodegradable/compostable materials and aims to eliminate polyester in stretch denim while retaining the elasticity of traditional stretch. This fabric group conforms to Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign.
Bossa’s winning product is Org Deolinda SavesWorldShield, a denim that combines sustainable fibers and dye techniques. The recipe for this authentic-looking fabric includes 54% Refibra, 20% recycled cotton, 20% organic cotton, 5% recycled polyester and 1% elastane treated with a water-efficient Saveblue dyeing process.
Denethic Denim put Calik in the winner’s circle. The collection uses rinsing, rinsing and enzyme and bleaching effects that save water and time during its production and later when the clothes are washed.
Candiani Denim was praised for Re-Gen (SK 6256 K-Old Pure), a blend of 31% pre-consumer recycled cotton waste, 2% pre-consumer recycled elastane, 55% lyocell and 12% cotton OCS- and Certified GRS. Significant amounts of water, chemicals and energy consumption are reduced when dyed.
Morris Middark Cactus PCRD ST (D5329), a fabric that is part of Kilim Denim’s Cactus project, has been named MSP because the new chemical it uses to attach indigo to its warp yarn reduces the consumption of 93% water. Its warp is made of 100% organic cotton while the weft is a blend of 47.5% recycled cotton, 47.5% recycled polyester and 5% elastane.
Naveena Denim was recognized for its Blue Hemp concept, an assortment of hemp-based denims created from cotton hemp, Tencel and recycled polyester and ozone finished by Jeanologia.
Neela Blue’s Green by NB, which is GRS, OCS and GOTS certified, was cited because its production requires absolutely no dyeing as the green is made with post-consumer cotton waste that has been previously dyed for its first life. This cotton is then mixed with organic cotton fibers and spun using an innovative technique.
Orta Andolu marked with its Immortalist collection, a combination of organic cotton and functional and responsible fibers. An important fabric in the range is 79% organic cotton with an organic cotton warp, 15% Tencel x Refibra, 4% Ecomade T400 and 2% elastane.
Revelation Blue (RA3713V) from Prosperity Textile was another best in show. An indigo-free denim with authentic washes, it’s made with exclusive eco-dye technology that forgoes anilines and hydrosulfites and offers 60% water savings.
The latest name on the list, Twig by Vicuhna, is the continuation of a project the factory started with denim guru Adriano Goldschmeid. This lightweight denim contains no virgin cotton. Instead, it’s made with GRS-certified recycled cotton that requires no additional dyeing, saving 95% of the water used in other methods.
Kingpins will publish a new list of MSP products after its next edition in New York in January 2023.